Restomod of a badly beaten Victorinox Camper- changing the scales

On a flea market some time ago I got myself a cool, but really badly battered Victorinox Camper... but for 3€ or summat.  

Now Victorinox has really changed my outlook on bushcraft knives in general.  Maybe it is because I am getting old, but a Victorinox Ranger really is my most used knife these days.  Rather light, always on board and rather unproblematic with the authorities, it really shines in a lot of applications, if you know how to use it. 

I think that will be a topic for another post.

 Anyway, the knife I got had a bad dent on the small whittling blade. On the detour from the flea market, I did a little bimble through the woods, and picked out a random sandstone and ground it flat against a broken tile also lying around not doing anything, and used it on the small blade.  

This worked out pretty well. I will show you how to use a sandstone as a grindstone in a future post.  The beauty of a SAK, however, is that, while the tempering of the blade is really resilient, while having a more than adequate edge retention, it can be maintained with next to no provisions.  

The other day, I had ordered some new scales. I did not need to upgrade to the Plus scales, but I ordered new goodies in red, too.  I am a fashion victim, too, sometimes, you know? 😉

But, of course, there was a reason for it,  since the scales were a bit damaged, too.  

Those had arrived, and I watched the awesome tutorial by the master of SAKs himself. Look here: 

That said, I changed one thing, and that was adding some detergent to the boiling water.  Removed the tweezers and toothpick, and put the knife into the hot, no longer boiling, water. I took some tongs at the ready to take it out of the water after some five minutes. The scales get a bit softer afterwards. 

Using the small blade on another SAK, i popped off the scales as Felix suggested, getting between liners and scales between the two hindmost rivets.  Worked a cinch. You have to be a bit careful and have a little patience, but the scales come off with a rather satisfying "pop" 😉. 

Taking care to thoroughly clean the liners and working the blades underwater for some time (you can also use Q-tips or a piece of handkerchief or paper towel wrapped around the tweezers), 

Thoroughly dry the liners afterwards. 

Starting with the corkscrew side, handpress the scales onto the rivets. 

Use a towel, some tape, or felt inlays to protect the scales from scratches, you can use a vise to press-fit the new scales in place. 

And just like that, you have a knife that is almost like new.  

This is the real beauty of a SAK.  That knife is over 45 years old, and it is now ready for a good time in the woods again.  

A use for the #Victorinox multi purpose hook

Now those Victorinox Swiss Army knives are really a strange thing. I mean, I do make knives myself, and some of them are pretty decent ahem, and I own quite a lot of production knives.  As a kid, I was into those Rambo movies like many others and had to have a Rambo knife. Broke it in no time, of course, because crap.  Got a Ka-Bar lookalike (yes, those WERE different times, and NO, I never, ever, hurt anyone  but myself). But I also carried a small Wenger SAK in my pocket.  I still have it, after 47years.  I sharpened, as in reprofiled it, maybe twice in all these years.  

I grew up in the woods, as you guys know.  I really used my knives. Ages ago, I went on the bushcraft train, mostly because it was simply a name for what I have done all my life.  I have never claimed to be the best or even mediocre, I just kept doing what I have always done.  

Now, with coming of age, so to say, I find that more often than not, I just take my SAK, sometimes two, into the woods, actually, and the guys who know me personally will cry out now "Wut?" , leaving my other knives at home.  Not because of some fear of the authorities or for other ideological reasons. But because these knives, provided you know how to use them, have little to no limitations as to what you can do with them. 

They are some of the most underrated and misunderstood knives in the bushcraft and survival community.  I say that because, like it or not, you will most possibly not use a knife against a wild boar attack.  Not even a Khukhuri.  Plus, like that or not, we are also not allowed to do any such thing as wild camping or starting a fire outside designated campsites. All that tactical special forces mumbo jumbo is just hot wind.  You can go foraging inside very strict regulations, take home a certain amount of mushrooms and other natural provisions, and if it is tolerated by the authorities, take a small diametre deadwood stick to whittle.  You are not entitled to sleep in the woods whatsoever, except in an emergency.  There are slightly lighter regulations on private property, but actually it is almost like that even the owner is not allowed to do anything in the woods than selling timber and planting trees.  

What you can do with a knife in the forests of Germany is strictly limited.  Of course I do love my Helle Fjellkniven Eggen, Norwegian hunting knife, and Temagami, my Casström Woodsman and No10 and all those other lovely bushcraft knives.  Using them gives you the feeling as if you were free.  But since you are not allowed to take wood for a fire, there is no need for batoning or anything like that. If you want to split wood for a spoon, fork or netting needle, well, the SAK can do this, too, if you know what you are doing.  

Now I must admit, I dismissed these knives for a long time, until Felix Immler made me see the light. Visit his YouTube channel https://youtube.com/@feliximmler?si=cAjloXVcVbsHkXh_ 

if you haven't already or buy his books, what this guy does certainly is an eye-  opener. What I want to say is that I simply wasn't aware of how versatile these mini toolboxes actually were.  

Take this multi-purpose hook, for instance. A lot of people would like not to have it on the knife.  Maybe it is not essential. I thought as much myself.  But it is a really handy asset on the knife if you learn how to use it.  I used it for making cordage from grass, which really worked great.  

 There is a saying in Southern Germany: "Des is koa rechta Bua', hoat ka Feitl und ka Schnur. "(That is not a real boy who has neither cordage nor knife). With a SAK, you can have both.  Now that I am getting old 'ish I realize that even as a kid, when I always had a more or less huge knife on my belt, the even smaller Wenger was what I used most.  

If you want to do feathersticking there is no faster way I know of than using a SAK.  

Do not get me wrong. It is a reality check, maybe a reality shock, for me, too.  Maybe it is a case of "the more you know, the less you carry". 

Anyway, if you leave the "special forces" mumbo jumbo behind you, a SAK is a world of its own to discover.  I would not throw away my other knives for the properties of the Vics.  Of course not.  But before you dismiss a SAK because it lacks prestige, you might try out the many possibilities.  

My pants are a whole lot lighter now least.  😉 

Victorinox New ranger review

 So folks, finally a new knife post... you have asked for it, and here it is. I am personally growing really fond of some simple Swiss army knives for various reasons. Now there is nothing wrong with a good sturdy bushcraft knife, and for a backwoods outing, it will always be my primary choice. But a Swiss army knife is sort of politically more correct, as much as I hate speaking the word of these controlmongers. But that is not all there is to it. To be quite honest, there is little more you need for a stroll in the woods. I share a documentation with you with the all-famous hero of the Swiss knife, Felix Immler (visit his channel here: https://www.youtube.com/user/Taschenmesserbuch/videos?view=0&shelf_id=2&sort=p&app=desktop), which might open your eyes. I simply like the atmosphere of the knives. They invoque images of sitting by a creek and whittling away or having a snack with grandpa. They are a really proven design and offer a versatility few other tools can offer, but they are a bit more handy than a multi-tool plier. Also I have grown really fond of the new models with walnut scales and have used them now extensively for several years. For example, the second from right is my own Vic forester, which virtually rides in my pocket every day. The effect on the wood you can see when compared to the knife of the magic troll on the far right, which is a backup and finds its place in her EDC rucksack. The huntsman on the far left is the second knife in my pocket, because it offers some additional shears, a hook, a small blade for detail whittling and more useful tools like the awl and saw, corkscrew caplifter and can opener. My newest addition is the New ranger, which is the successor of the Wenger New Ranger. An interesting fact is that, as Wenger went bankrupt after the 9/11 incidents and the following judicial mayhem, Victorinox took over the Délemont facilities and all employees. Also they have a policy that the management must not get more than six times the salary than the lowest fee. But, fact is fact, and fact is that the New Ranger is one hell of a knife.

 The knife offers beautiful walnut scales, which are, to be honest, a bit thick to my liking, but a file and some sandpaper changed that and now it is a really handy user that rolls and rocks in the hand like a cinch. Out of the box the saw and main blade came razor sharp as usual. You can bet on that... I have never encountered a Vic or Wenger knife that did not shave outta the box. A real upgrade towards the old Wenger is the tin can opener, which now cuts in a forward motion. The difference to the forester caplifter, which has a liner block, it has no locking mechanism, which makes it a little less usable as a prybar, but as is, the spring has enough stay to keep you relatively safe.

 Also, the awl is now sharpened, which makes it a cinch when drilling or punching holes or repairing leather...

The corkscrew is a nice addition which also makes it a valuable addition for a nice picknick outing with a bottle of wine and some good cheese and suasage... which I admit I am a more than a bit partial to... ;-) 

 Like that, see? ;-)

That video is in German, but it really transports the spirit of this kind of knife. Enjoy! For some reading into the topic, look here:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Swiss-Army-Knife-Book-Projects/dp/0711238898

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Werken-mit-dem-Taschenmesser-unterwegs/dp/3038008338/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Werken+mit+dem+Taschenmesser&qid=1568210373&s=books&sr=1-1

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Victorinox-Swiss-Knife-Whittling-Easy/dp/1565239091/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Felix+Immler&qid=1568210427&s=books&sr=1-3

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Victorinox-Swiss-Army-Knife-Whittling/dp/1497100712/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Felix+Immler&qid=1568210455&s=books&sr=1-4

There are a lot of cool books on the topic, and a lot of nice projects to make, especially with kids.

Long time user test... Victorinox /Wenger new ranger

 This is one of those knives I own and use for quite a long time now. It rides in my pocket every day, since 2013... for a reason. In the meantime, the corporation had shut down, but the good thing is, Wenger has been bought by Victorinox, and the management decided to keep up production on site in Délemont and keep up producing nearly all of the models, including the New Ranger Wood. Even better, while this one is from 1.4034 (similar to 420HC), which works well enough, to be true, newer models come in 1.4110 (440A), and since 2017, 1.4116 steel. The blade is nearly 100mm long and just 2,5 mm thick at the base with a high flat grind. 1 mm above the edge thickness is just 0,4mm, the grind angle is some 25°. The knife come with a saw from 1.4034, which works equally well in a pushing and pulling motion and which is 102 mm long, has a thin spine and thick albeit razor-sharp teeth, a caplifter, a tin can opener, a corkscrew and an awl. The saw is an absolute highlight and easily beats sawblades more than triple the size. It simply bites! The saw also holds an edge very well (I have never sharpened it since the knife came out of the box. The knife locks via an intersting system. It is more of a liner block. In this a strong back spring is complemented with a locking liner made from 1.4034 steel which is unlocked by pressing the marvellously fitted Swiss cross. After 4 years it still works like new!

 The springs and liners are made from tempered 1.4034 steel that comes in a mirror polish even on the insides. They are riveted through under the scales with brass pins on massive washers. The washers ride in pockets of the scales, which are made from stunningly beautiful Swiss walnut scales. The wood comes from a certified forestry program and is chosen for its sustainability as well as its beauty. Over the years it has darkened considerably, and of course this is something you might or might not like.

 The knife blade has some serrations on the spine making for quite a secure thumb rest. The blade is razor sharp, which I experienced personally when I was off my attention and quartered an apple freehand and cut off the top of my left index finger with a smooth cut... I had put it back in place, and it even stuck back on ;-) with just some tape and stitching (I was a bit clumsy, so I still have some sensitivity issues, but no harm done, if you think you get through life unscarred, you did not get the gist ;-)). It is of a respectable size for snacking and stuff. Due to a somewhat chunky handle there are better knives for whittling delicate tasks, but there are worse knives, too, and most of them labelled as explicitly bushcraft knives.

 The handle, however chunky, feels great in your hand, due to an ergonomic design and offers a very secure grip. The caplifter works a cinch. The tin can opener works well enough, but with a reverse motion that needs some adapting to, but it keeps an edge very well and it so sharp out of the box that you could actually whittle with it (I tried ;-)). The corkscrew is excellent and does its job flawlessly. the awl, however, is a tool I seldom use, because the spring is so stiff it is a pain in the arse to open it. It has no edge to it and cannot be used to drill holes as with the Vic pocket knives, but only for poking... maybe they have changed that in the meantime... ?

Overall, this is a knife that is very underestimated by many. Of course, the blade does not offer the nimbus of a heebie-jeebie-goobalahbah fancy unobtanium steel. But I cut a lot with it, from cardboard boxes to snacks, from hard, seasoned sausage and bacon to paper and wood, leather and persenning and Paracord, and it holds an edge well. All I had to do was strop it frequently on a common steel strop and I once put a very fine stone to it to bring it back to hair-popping sharpness. The saw is simply lovely and offers a good length, the tools (except for the awl) work perfectly or well enough, and it comes in at a bargain prize. Of course, batoning is not quite an option, but I daresay, thsi knife would live up to that task, too, if you do it sensibly. For a bimble through the woods with a picknick with your friends and even overnighters it´s a very valuable tool.

Short Review of a Wenger New Ranger Evo Wood

 Okay, so I had one of those opportunities again. I got myself a Wenger New Ranger Evo Wood CHEAP, so I did buy it. I am a bit off my rocker when knives are concerned, and I am the first to admit that;-). But, as is, my first impression was "gotta have it!". Here are my second thoughts.

The main blade has an overall length of roundabout 100 mm. Due to the beautiful round ricasso, roundabout 93 mm of it are useable. I much prefer an edge all the way to the handle, for there you can work with the most force. But then, the design contributes much to the beauty of the knife, and it´s not much of a tribute;-) to pay to aesthetics. It´s made from a quality variety of 1.4034 (420HC). This steel, that can vary from 0,45-0,55% carbon content, certainly is not the latest magic powder D2 steel, but it gets the job done well enough for generations of Swiss army knife users and lovers. Plus, if the manufacturer gets the tempering right, it will get as hard as 56 - 59 HRC(selective temper). If you temper it any harder, you risk fractures of the blade. As a rule of thumb, the hardness potential of any steel should not be scooped out more than 75 % to get the best compromise between edge-holding capability and elasticity. The steel is easy to sharpen. Out of the box, the blade came wickedly sharp. Hair just popped away. The blade locks via an interesting mechanism. It is held in place by a slipjoint mechanism and locked by a locking liner. The liner locks all the way towards the inner part of the blade´s root and is unlockes by pressing the Swiss cross. Radially, there was a minimal play of about 0,05 mm, coaxially there was no play whatsoever, and the liner simply springs into its position with an audible and very reassuring sound. The saw, made from the same material, is razor sharp also and works pulling and pushing with a tendency towards a pulling motion, as with a Japanese saw.

 The teeth of the saw are slightly set, and the saw has an enormous length when compared with the in-house competitor brand, Victorinox, and nearly all of it can be used. The caplifter also works as a screwdriver. When loaded, the tool is locked and will not fold in accidentally, which is very good. The tin can opener works in a reverse motion. It is nice and sharp, and I daresay it depends on your own taste if you prefer the direction of the motion. It does not lock, but, to be true, this isn´t needed any. The corkscrew is straight and fine and has a useable tip, and also included is an awl. This one will work in an emergency, but the T-handle position to me makes for some awkward work.

 The blade has serrations on the spine which make for a better grip.

How the locking liner works. The highlight of this knife are the beautiful scales out of domestic Swiss walnut wood, harvested from woods with a FSC certificate.

First and foremostly, it is a very beautiful knife. The natural scales make for a different feeling, the dynamic lines just make you want to look at it for hours on end. But this knife, the evolution of a proven design, also feels rock - solid. It  offers all a bushcrafter might want to have on even an overnighter. Its blade is elastic, serviceable, yet holds an edge well enough, the saw is the greatest I have seen so far in a folding pocket knife, and the other goodies don´t hinder the function a bit. There are minor flaws or compromises to design. Do I recommend it?

In the short time I own it it has already become my favourite EDC.